If this is a familiar question to you, then you’ve come to the right place to find an answer. Unlike the GPU or the CPU, your PSU doesn’t interact with the motherboard in a way that it can relay information. Therefore it’s hard to gauge the capabilities of your power supply with a software solution, but not impossible.
The power supply unit tends to get overshadowed by the more flashy components, yet it’s imperative to know about it. Knowing how much power you have is a must, particularly if you’re planning on building a PC on your own.
However, if you’ve already purchased a pre-built PC, your power supply will likely be correctly optimized for the build, and you won’t have too many issues. Unless, of course, you’re planning to upgrade the pre-built PC, but that’s a whole different can of worms.
That being said, what you need to know is that there are two ways of figuring out what power supply you have, but they depend on your PC.
Table of ContentsShow
Check The Packaging/Receipt
The most obvious method is to simply take a peek under the hood and read the declaration. But, if you do not feel comfortable opening the case of your PC, the only other alternative you have is to check the information on the original PSU packaging or the receipt.
If you have bought a pre-built PC then it is most probable that you don’t have any original packaging/boxes from the components. But, what you do have is a receipt, warranty or any other kind of proof of purchase.
On this receipt, you should be able to find exactly which brand and model of PSU you got.
If you’ve bought the PC components individually, try to find the PSU packaging. On it you will find the correct make and model.
Opening Up The Case
Did you just remember that you threw away the box in which the PSU came with? Not to worry. There’s still the option of opening up the case and that is exactly what you should do.
As required by the UL (formerly Underwriters Laboratories), the PSU has a label with power rankings on it.
Once you’ve opened up the case, you should easily locate the PSU and the sticker on it. However, it is possible that you won’t be able to find the sticker because they sometimes get placed on a different side of the PSU.
If this is the case, you will have to open the back of the case and see if it’s there; if it isn’t, then it likely isn’t at the top either.
What this means is that you won’t be able to know which PSU you have, and that poses a risk. Simply put, you won’t know if the current build is intended for this specific power range or if upgrading it can lead to trouble.
In this scenario, it’s recommended to get a new power supply unit, given that having that label is a safety requirement.
Understanding The Label Of The Power Supply Unit
So, you’re looking at the sticker and at a table with a bunch of numbers on it and you’re probably confused. Don’t worry, here’s a quick guide on what it all means.
- Wattage – Usually written with the biggest font and by some margin. This pretty much gives you the information you probably need the most.
- PSU Name/Model – This will likely be written in a weird production code that you can put in your Google machine to learn more about the model, such as what connectors it has.
- Input Voltage – Power Supply functions on AC voltage, and that is what you have to supply to it. For the US, Canada, and most South American countries, this number will be roughly around 110V – 127V and for the UK, Europe, Asia, Africa and Australia, etc., it is 200 – 240V. This, of course, is in correlation to the power socket voltage.
- DC Output – Conversely, this is the power that your PSU provides your computer with. Standard output voltages are +3.3V, +5V, +12V and +5VSB. You may also find -12V, but that is no longer in use. These are also known as Rails, such as 3.3V Rail, 5V Rail, and so on.
+5VSB is always on as it powers the mouse, keyboard, memory, LAN and BIOS memory to support the PC when it’s on standby mode.
- Max Load or Max Current– Under each table cell for voltage you’ll find the label for the maximum current load. You should know that this particular wording is sometimes omitted, but in most cases you’ll find it directly under the corresponding voltage. Its unit is Ampere and if you overload it, it may lead to a shutdown.
- Maximum Power (Combined) – This will be directly under output cells and is calculated in Watts. This is the formula used in this calculation: Power (W) = Voltage (V) X Current (I)
- Total Power – Some manufacturers only use the total combined power of 12V Rail as it powers 80-90% of the components, while others will calculate all the rails.
Keep in mind, when looking at upgrading to a new model, the +12V rail is what you should be looking for. That’s what the CPU and GPU will be using. Those are the two components that draw the most power.
Searching The Manual Or Looking It Up Online
This is the best and easiest method to use when concluding which power supply you have if you own a pre-built PC.
There’s no need to open up the case and potentially cause problems by being careless when there’s already a ready-made text to help you out. If you don’t have your PC’s manual, hopefully you’ll at least know what model it is. Then you can simply search it online and find the specifications on the manufacturer’s website.